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Aug 14, 2022

01:15:59

For mountaineers and adventurers, there’s a rich history of exploration in and around Alaska's Denali National Park. And although the park is mostly known for the hordes of people who attempt to climb Denali each season - few have ever thought about circumnavigating the Denali, Foraker (Sultana) and Hunter (Begguya) massifs - let alone in winter.

The first circumnavigation-like explorations, of non-indiginous people, came around the turn of the century, around the 1900’s. These trips were fueled mostly by the hunt for scientific knowledge or, of course, gold.

In 1899, the first non-native overland traverse of the Alaska Range was made by 1st Lt. Joseph Herron's Army expedition. They took a route via the Yetna and Kichatna Rivers.

In 1902, USGS geologist Alfred Brooks first explored the southern aspect of the area on a mapping expedition, traveling through and eventually naming Rainy Pass.

Then, in 1903, a 6-member expedition led by Dr. Frederick Cook attempted Denali’s Northwest Buttress, reaching an elevation just under 11,000 feet. Starting in the small village of Tyonek, the team completed the expedition by circumnavigating, possibly unintentionally, the Denali-Foraker massifs.

In the ensuing years, most of the exploration focus in and around Denali National Park was on mountaineering.

Then, in 1978, the first circumnavigation on skis of Denali was made from April 7-28 by Ned Gillette, Galen Rowell, Alan Bard and Doug Weins via Kahiltna Pass, Peter’s Glacier, Muldrow Glacier, Traleika Glacier and Ruth Glacier.

But it wasn’t until 1995, that a complete circumnavigation of the Denali-Foraker massifs - in winter - would be made.

On February 17 of that year, Daryl Miller and his partner, Mark Stasik, embarked on a journey that would last 45 days, and traverse 350 miles. The route, which started in Talkeetna, followed the winding Chulitna River, to the massive Muldrow Glacier, to an area north of the Wickersham Wall known as little Siberia, across the Yetna, Lacuna and Kahiltna Glaciers, on and around toward the Peters Hills and finally back home to Talkeetna. The duo would endure bone-chilling temperatures and relentless wind, waist deep sugar snow and terrifying glacier terrain, as well as unrelenting hunger.

But when it was all said and done, the journey would become an Alaskan classic that is yet to be repeated.

Here’s Daryl Miller’s retelling of this amazing story.

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Special Thanks to Daryl Miller

Written and produced by Evan PhillipsEdited and mixed by Pod PeakMusic by Evan Phillips

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Jul 05, 2022

01:34:13

You know that saying - “they just don’t make em’ the way they used to”. I guess you could call it a quintessential American expression. In the climbing world, It conjures up icons like Lynn Hill, Jim Bridwell, Catherine Freer, and Royal Robbins - just to name a few.

You know you have someone like that in your life. It’s someone who’s tough. They have a determination and resolve that’s made of granite. There’s something about them - maybe you can’t quite put it into words - but they just have an aura or presence around them - that’s larger than life.

When you meet these people, they leave an indelible mark on you. And that’s exactly how I felt this last spring, after spending a few days with a guy named Daryl Miller.

If you spent any time climbing on or around Denali back in the 1990's and early 2000’s - surely you came across Daryl - or at the very least, you knew who he was. Back then, Daryl was the Chief Climbing Ranger on Denali - and even then, he was larger than life. His aura was equal parts military, mountaineer, and Marlboro Man - a steely gaze with a perpetual squint in his eyes from too much glacier sun.

But Daryl wasn’t just known for his daring mountain rescues. In February 1995, he and his partner Mark Stasik walked out of Downtown Talkeetna, and embarked on one of the wildest expeditions in Denali Park history. When the grizzled and emaciated duo returned two months later, they had become the first party to circumnavigate Denali National Park in winter - a rugged 350 mile journey that has never been repeated.

But Daryl’s life journey didn’t end with Denali. In 1997, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease - a condition that ultimately forced him to shift gears in his career, and eventually retire from the Park Service in 2008.

These days, Daryl lives a simpler life in Anchorage with his wife Judy and their two dogs, Raven and Jago. When I came to visit Daryl for the first time in March, he led me to a back room where we would conduct the first of our three interviews. The room is adorned with relics of a life well lived: photos of climbing expeditions near and far. Military medals, black and white stills of a young Rodeo clown. And a young man, barely out of high school, in combat fatigues in Vietnam, circa 1965.

I quickly realized that I didn’t know much about Daryl. But what I did know is that he’d probably lived 9 lives. The only question was where to start.•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Cover Photo: Daryl Miller after a 30 hour search for a patrol member above 15,000 feet on Denali, May,1994

Special Thanks to Daryl Miller

Written and produced by Evan PhillipsEdited and mixed by Pod PeakMusic by Evan Phillips and Tim Easton

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Jun 19, 2022

00:31:49

Today we head into the Kichatna Spires - a compact subrange of monolithic granite towers located just south of Denali.

In early June, North American climbers Graham Zimmerman, Dave Allfrey and Whit Magro, headed into the Kichatna’s - their sites set on a new line up the beautiful northwest face of the ranges namesake - Kichatna Spire.

Although many parties attempting lines in the Kichatna’s get hammered by bad weather and poor conditions, the trio was blessed by the mountain gods - which allowed them to make a first ascent in an enjoyable and safe manner.

The climb, which the team named ‘The Pace of Comfort’ - takes a steep line left of the 1979 Embick and Bridwell route, and goes at Grade VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

Here’s Graham Zimmerman’s account of this amazing journey.

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Notes

Special thanks to Graham Zimmerman

More info about 'The Pace Of Comfort' on Kichatna Spire:Explorers Web Climbing

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod Peak

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Jun 13, 2022

00:04:17

Notes

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod Peak

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Jun 05, 2022

00:30:35

The western Chugach - the mountains surrounding Anchorage and the Mat-su valley to the east, are a veritable playground for hikers and climbers. Although the rock is predominantly poor in quality, the peaks are striking, sometimes rising 5,000 from the valley floor, with a variety of snow and ice lines penetrating their faces. Historically, these peaks have been scaled by mountaineers of all skill levels. But in recent years, skiers have started exploring some of the larger objectives - and one of the most sought after lines, is the north couloir of Mount Rumble.

Resembling a lower-elevation K2, Mount Rumble rises nearly 5,000 out of the headwaters of Peter’s Creek Valley - it’s symmetrical walls forming an almost perfect pyramid. The North Couloir nakes it’s way up the mountain, and is consistently 40-50 degrees for almost 4,500’. Suffice to say - it’s an epic climbing or ski line - depending on conditions of course.

In April, local Anchorage skiers and endurance athletes, Brian Harder and Lars Flora, skied the line - but the did it incredible style - making the 26 mile round trip, with over 14,000’ of elevation gain, in 13 hours round trip.

I recently caught up with Brian to hear about the experience, what he learned along the way, and some future objectives that he might explore.

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Notes

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakMusic & Sound Design by Evan Phillips

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May 01, 2022

00:51:48

Call me old school, but nothing gets me more fired up than adding a new adventure, climbing or mountaineering book to the collection. So I was excited last month, when Valley Of Giants: Stories From Women at The Heart of Yosemite Climbing, arrived at my doorstep. This anthology, edited and curated by Lauren DeLaunay Miller, is a collection of 39 stories - written and told by the trailblazing, often-times under the radar, women who have been at the center of Yosemite climbing over the past century.

While the book of course features stories by well-known valley climbers such as Lynn Hill and Steph Davis, DeLauney Miller has gone to painstaking lengths to include older, more obscure - but equally important stories - as well. The result is a rich and inspiring history of female climbing and adventure in Yosemite Valley.

I recently spoke with DeLaunay Miller, to talk about her process for putting this important anthology together. What struck me was the amount of work, and dogged determination required - just to find the stories for the book: Basically a combination of internet sleuthing, scouring the white pages of physical phone books, writing and sending hand-written letters, and cold-calling strangers across the country. It’s an impressive feat, and left me feeling that DeLaunay Miller is equal parts climber, librarian, and investigative journalist.

So i hope you enjoy my conversation with Lauren DeLaunay Miller - talking about her new anthology Valley Of Giants: Stories From Women at The Heart Of Yosemite Climbing.

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Notes

Special thanks to Lauren DeLaunay Miller

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Apr 17, 2022

00:56:12

This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations. First explored in the late 60’s by David Roberts and friends, The Revelations hold a mystique, and reputation, that has continued to grow over the years. The range, which is nestled between the southwest tip of The Alaska Range, and the north and western aspects of the Aleutian, Neacola and the Tordrillo Mountains, is as remote, as it is fierce. The jagged peaks, which average between 7 and 9 thousand feet in height, are an alpine climbers dream, with sweeping granite buttresses, firm gullies of neve snow, and ribbons and shafts of bulletproof ice.

But for every day of good conditions and weather, there’s at least 3 days of worse weather. And by bad I mean never ending rain and snow storms, fog and soupy cloud cover, and relentless, vicious, hurricane-force winds. If that’s not enough, just getting in and out of the range requires multiple bush plane flights, sometimes costing thousands of dollars. That is if you can even find a pilot willing to fly in there (more on that, at the end of this episode). Let’s just say that being a Revelations climber requires a different kind of commitment.

And this was certainly the case for North American alpinists Clint Helander and Andres Marin, who flew into the Revelations this March to attempt the east Face of Golgotha - an unclimbed, 4,000 foot granite face, laced with snow, and pierced by sinister shafts of ice.

The mountain, which clocks in at just under 9,000’, was first climbed in 2012 by Helander and Ben Trocki, when they attempted the east face, but ultimately opted for an easier route up the southeast face. Helander returned in 2016 with Marin, making a tricky landing directly under the face on the aptly named ‘Misfit’ Glacier. But after a day, the snow and wind came, and the duo was nearly killed when a gargantuan avalanche destroyed their camp, forcing them to quiver behind a large, glacial erratic for days until their pilot extracted them to safety.

The duo returned in 2017 - this time with a third - Leon Davis. That year, they made it multiple pitches up the route, finding a massive bivy cave. They also got a look at what appeared to be the crux pitch. An overhanging prow of rock with ice daggers hanging off the top like tentacles of an octopus. But unfortunately, a broken crampon led to an early retreat.

Again, Helander and Marin returned in 2018, but the conditions and vibe weren't right. They decided to fly out.

Finally, in March of this year, Helander and Marin returned for a fourth trip, landing on the more spacious Revelation Glacier, where they made a basecamp. The duo then traveled over a col, and rappeled onto the Misfit Glacier, where they were able to recon the east face. This time, the route looked to be in impeccable condition, with a decent weather window to boot.

Here’s Clint and Andres’s account of the first ascent of the east face of Golgotha - a route they aptly named ‘The Shaft of The Abyss’.

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Notes

Special thanks to Clint Helander & marin.html">Andres Marin

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Apr 10, 2022

00:51:16

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know backcountry skier, advocate and adaptive athlete, Vasu Sojitra. When Vasu was just 9 months old, his right leg was amputated due to a blood infection called Septicemia. Although his life was forever changed, it didn’t stop him from pursuing his passions through childhood, which included skateboarding, soccer and skiing. But things changed in college, when Vasu discovered the joy of backcountry skiing - which opened a whole new world of exploration of the natural world, and himself.

Since that time, Vasu has immersed himself into the life of backcountry skiing, while simultaneously pursuing work as an advocate for people living with disabilities. For Vasu, the goal is to expand the definition of backcountry skiing to the adaptive community. And maybe this was best exemplified in the summer of 2021, when Vasu and his teammates skied off the summit of Denali, making the first disabled ski descent of the mountain.

I recently got a chance to talk with Vasu about his extraordinary life, ranging from his challenges as a kid, to his self-customized ski outriggers, and his incredible ski descent of Denali. All that and more, on this episode of The Firn Line.

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Notes

Special thanks to Vasu SojitraCover Photo: Sofia Jaramillo

Written & Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Mar 20, 2022

00:33:37

They say that Alaska is a place of extremes. This ranges from the stark changing of the seasons, to the scale of the wilderness landscapes, and of course, the size of the monolithic mountains. But it also applies to the races - and I’m not talking about Nascar. There’s the Iditarod - a grueling 950 mile dog sled race from Anchorage to Nome, that travels through bitter cold temperatures and sub-arctic, coastal storms. There’s Mount Marathon - a blistering roundtrip run up and down a nearly 3,000 foot high peak, covered in loose rock and scree, and lined with dangerous cliffs. And then there’s the Alaska Wilderness Classic.

Started in the early 1980’s, The Alaska Wilderness Classic is less of a formal race, and more of a grass-roots, community driven adventure challenge. The Classic historically traverses a mountain range, anywhere from 150-250 miles in distance, and the rules are simple: get from point A to Point B unassisted, usually by foot, ski or pack raft. Participants are expected to leave minimal impact on the terrain they cross, and are prepared to extract themselves in case of emergency. Although the racers are often-times friends, and checking in with each other throughout the race, it’s a serious event, with potentially high consequences.

And this was the case in the winter of 2020, when Emily Sullivan and her partner, Taylor Bracher, began their journey from the historic mining community of McCarthy, Alaska - to cross the heavily glaciated Wrangell Mountains, en route to Tok, Alaska.

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Notes

This trip report is made possible with the generous support of The Firn Line Patreon backers.

Special thanks to Emily Sullivan

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Mar 06, 2022

01:13:23

It was the summer of 1996. At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska. That summer, I’d landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I’d like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly outhouses, packing up bags of garbage, and picking up fish guts off the beaches. Although I was far away from any climbing, I was often mesmerized by the Aleutian and Neacola Ranges, 50 miles across the water.

So I was excited when I received a stash of beloved issues of Climbing Magazine in the mail. As I poured through each issue, I was stopped in my tracks when I stumbled onto a story about 2 climbers who’d just attempted the North Face of Mount Neacola, the highest mountain in the Neacola Range. The climbers, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey, had spent 5 days attempting a route they dubbed the Medusa Face. The photos were inspiring, and terrifying to say the least: a near vertical dark wall bigger than The Nose on El Cap. Black rock laced with snow and ice, with no obvious crack systems to follow. A mixture of free, aid and ice climbing, while being pummeled by relentless wind, spindrift and bitter cold. This was wild stuff.

Although the duo didn’t reach the summit, it was an adventure that resonated with me, and captured my imagination. I never forgot about the Medusa Face on Mount Neacola.

That’s why I was intrigued 25 years later, when I heard about the trio of Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino, and Nick Aiello-Popeo, making the first complete ascent of the face. It was stunning to me to hear about a new generation of climbers returning to a climb that had filled me with so much intrigue and inspiration over the years. It also got me thinking about reaching out to Topher Donahue.

Luckily I did get in touch with Topher, and we recently had an engaging conversation about his life in the mountains. We talked about a lot of things, including his attempt on Neacola. But like a lot of climbers I talk with, it turns out there was a lot more to Topher’s life, than one trip to a remote Alaskan mountain in 1995.

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Notes

Special thanks to Topher DonahueCover Photo: Kennan Harvey

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Feb 20, 2022

00:11:33

Adam Gellman, a young glacier guide, tells the story of his adventures on an obscure (but challenging) Alaskan peak called Mt. Wickersham.

This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon.

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Notes

Written & Narrated by Adam Gellman

Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Feb 06, 2022

00:58:09

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley.

Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared deeply about social justice issues, whether it was participating in peaceful anti-war rallies, or attending meetings of the Palestine Aid Society with her mother.

Later, in her teens, Miranda started rock climbing at the local gym - and it was during that time, she discovered the calling that would begin to shape her life. In college, she started a climbing club and began making her first road trips with friends. But it wasn’t until she headed west in 2006, to the big walls of Yosemite Valley, that her life’s vision truly came into focus.

Since that time, Miranda has become a force in the climbing world. With the support of her longtime sponsor, Mountain Hardware, She’s established herself as a seasoned guide with the Yosemite Mountaineering School, while simultaneously becoming one of the most prolific female trad climbers in the United States. Some of her remarkable ascents include linking Half Dome and El Cap in a day, as well as becoming the first female to rope-solo The Nose on El Cap in under 24 hours.

I recently caught up with Miranda, to talk about her remarkable life journey. Our conversation begins during Miranda’s college years - the formative time when her passion for climbing became the driving force in her life.•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Learn more about Miranda Oakley

Written & Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Jan 25, 2022

00:01:08

Hey Firn Line fans, this is Evan, and I wanted to tell you about a new monthly series I’m launching called The Trip Report. Storytelling is an integral part of human nature - and climbing and adventure stories are no exception. There’s nothing better than sitting around a campfire on a crisp, desert night - listening to a friend share a story of adventure, perhaps a brush with danger, or a time when everything came together perfectly. Stories are a way to carry on traditions to the next generation - a way to learn, a way to laugh, and sometimes, a way to cry.

So this is an open invite to the Firn Line community, to dig into your well of experiences, and maybe consider sharing. If you have a trip report you’d like to share, feel free to send me an email at thefirnline@gmail.com - and let’s get a conversation going. I look forward to hearing from each and every one of you.

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Jan 16, 2022

00:37:39

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana - or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few. But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska. This temperate region, which encompasses the shared traditional land of the Ahtna, Athabaskan, Alutiq and Eyak cultures, averages around 300 inches of snow each year, making it a perfect environment for forming fat, blue ice routes

There’s a rich climbing history in Valdez, starting when Jeff Lowe and John Weiland made the first ascent of the ultra-classic Keystone Greensteps in 1975. Then, in the late 70’s, a couple of young hotspot climbers from Fairbanks, Carl Tobin and Roman Dial, started ticking of dozens of first ascents, raising the standard of what was being done at the time. In the 80’s, climber’s like Andy Embick, Chuck Comstock and Brian Teale, all Valdez locals, continued the tradition, establishing hundreds of classic first ascents. And the old school merged with the new, when In February 1987, Steve Garvey and Jim Sweeney climbed Sans Amis, a grade 6 snow and rock line on the Keystone Wall - ushering in modern mixed climbing techniques to the Valdez area.

Although Valdez has remained popular over the years, it’s continued to somehow stay under the radar to the mainstream climbing world. But that hasn’t stopped a new generation of Alaskans from continuing the tradition of adventure, exploration, and first ascents in the magnificent arena.

One of these ascents happened in Feb, 2021, during the annual Valdez Ice Festival, when Sam Volk, Ryan Sims, August Franzen, and Sam Johnson, headed back toward the remote Wartmanns Glacier. Assisted by snow machines, and a boot pack put in a few day before by Sims and Johnson, the 200 meter, WI 6 climb was an instant classic. Here’s Sam Volk’s trip report of that memorable outing.

This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon.

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Notes

Written & Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips

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Jan 02, 2022

01:23:08

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway. I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step, which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2. Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his tenacity, grit and determination in the mountains. But it turns out, the world’s high peaks we’re just one chapter in Rick’s life: a life that’s been filled with adventure, catastrophe, enduring love, and heart-wrenching loss.

A few months ago, I caught wind of Rick’s new memoir, Life Lived Wild, which came out via Patagonia Books on October 26th. The book describes the many adventures in Rick’s life - everything from a gripping stay in a vicious Panamanian jail at 24 years old, to one of his closest companions dying in his arms on a remote Chinese mountain, to traverses in remote regions of Tibet and Borneo, to the windswept and frigid summits of Antarctica. After finishing the book, I finally understood why Rolling Stone magazine once dubbed Rick, ‘the real Indiana Jones’.

This last fall, I was fortunate to catch up with Rick when we talked for almost 3 hours over the course of two separate interviews. It would be impossible to cover Rick’s whole life in such a short amount of time, so we talked mostly about his early years. At the end of it, I was left mesmerized by Rick’s stories - but more importantly, I was touched by his honesty, his humor, his grace, and his enduring wisdom.

I hope you all enjoy this conversation with Rick Ridgeway.••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Written & Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan Phillips & Tim Easton

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Mar 22, 2021

00:09:02

Atlas Obscura's mission is to inspire wonder and curiosity about the incredible world we all share. Atlas Obscura co-founder and host Dylan Thuras is here to guide you on an audio journey to discover new and hidden places; perhaps on the other side of the world, or perhaps in your own backyard. Once there, you'll hear stories and history from the incredible people who make these places special

Visit atlasobscura.com/podcast or follow the show in your favorite podcast app! New episodes are available every day, Monday through Thursday.

Mar 15, 2021

01:01:17

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse. From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, to the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers.

But for climbers and alpinists looking to put their physical, mental and psychological fortitude to the test- perhaps no range is better suited, than the Canadian Rockies.

Although the Rockies offer opportunities for mountaineers of all abilities, it’s the giant peaks, with their menacing and fearsome north walls, that have cemented the Canadian Rockies as one of the world’s most storied alpine arenas.

And today, I’m chatting with one of the rockies most accomplished, and enduring alpinists of his generation, Jon Walsh.

Jon’s alpine resume is uniquely impressive - with dozens and dozens of first ascents ranging from Patagonia, The Karakoram and The Bugaboos. But it’s his climbs in the Canadian Rockies, particularly his routes on the legendary peaks like Alberta, North Twin, and Robson, that stand out the most (at least to me).

I recently got a chance to speak with Jon about his career in the Rockies, and in some ways, this conversation was special. In the next hour, you’ll hear deep wisdom, and unmatched experience. For aspiring alpinists, and folks who are interested specifically in the Candian Rockies - you’ll want to pay extra attention. It’s not so often you get to hear first hand accounts, from true masters of the craft.

This conversation is focused primarily on Jon’s experiences on the North walls of Mount Alberta, Robson, and North Twin - but like a lot of conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Jon’s early years, and how he got into climbing in the first place.

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Mar 07, 2021

00:51:33

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there. Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that inhabit certain areas. Having even a basic understanding of what lies ahead, can be the difference between having a great day out, and not coming home at all.

And that’s the philosophy behind Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning, which comes out June 1st on Falcon Guides.

Dead Reckoning is an honest, gritty, and sometimes gripping collections of close-calls and accidents in the outdoors.

Emma’s compelling narrative nonfiction covers stories and topics ranging from hiking and mountaineering, to sea kayaking and backcountry skiing, in a style that is accessible to readers of all experience levels.

At the end of each chapter, she distills lessons learned for staying safe in the outdoors––all with a relatable, sometimes self-deprecating (and occasionally vulnerable) twist.

I recently caught up with Emma to talk about the book, why she wrote it and who it’s for, as well as digging into the creative process of being a writer and creative person.

All that today, on this episode of The Firn Line.

Links:Emma Walker (website)Dead Reckoning (Pre-Order)The Firn Line Patreon Evan Phillips Music

Sponsors:Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot

Dec 31, 2020

01:18:14

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes. I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice. Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond - always pushing himself to a higher standard, that only he knew the limit of. Later, I admired his work as senior editor of the American Alpine Journal, followed by his published books, ‘The Tower’, and the New York Times best seller, ‘The Push’, which he co-wrote with Tommy Caldwell.

But I didn’t truly get to know Kelly until we chatted, and like a lot of alpinists, Kelly has a storied past, riddled with high highs, low lows, anchored by a fascination with exploration and adventure. So here’s our conversation. I hope you enjoy it.

Links:The Devil's Thumb (AAJ)Mt. Burkett (Alpinist )The Firn Line (Website)Patreon

Nov 30, 2020

00:41:24

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman. I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity.

So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t.

Dammed If You Don't tells the story of a deeply-conflicted photographer who tries to save Lahuenco_—_a remote valley in Patagonian Chile—by showing the world how beautiful it is. But in showing the world how beautiful it is, he inadvertently puts Lahuenco in peril—including a rare and mysterious salamander whose sudden appearance there forces the scientific community to rethink its understanding of evolutionary biology, and possibly human history itself.

Chris and I recently caught up to talk about the his creative process, some philosophical discussions about the role of conservation in the outdoor community, as well as some fun talk - just about climbing. So I hope you enjoy our conversation.

Links:Dammed If You Don't The Firn Line Patreon Evan Phillips Music

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Oct 30, 2020

00:53:28

The Snow Coffin

Evan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, harrowing bivouac, and narrow escape from a remote Alaskan mountain.

The Ghost Of Aconcagua

Mountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnavigation and ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled "ghost of Aconcagua" on her way out.

Visitors In The Night

Montana climber Justin Willis tells the gripping tale of unexplained sounds in the night during a weekend climbing trip to Comet Mountain.

recording, editing and sound design by Pod Peak LLC

LinksThe Firn Line Patreon T-Shirts Evan Phillips Music

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Oct 14, 2020

00:37:22

A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.

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Sep 07, 2020

00:47:07

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor.

Eddie grew up in different parts of the country. As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski. It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors.

During his high school years, Eddie moved out to Minnesota with his mom and sister, where he excelled in sports - playing basketball, soccer and track and field. But he also had an aptitude for academics, and by the time he graduated, he decided to move out west to Boulder, Colorado, to attend Colorado State University.

Eddie focused on his education, majoring in both Mathematics and Chemistry. But the allure of athletics pulled at him, and with the encouragement of some friends, he walked on to the track and field team. It didn’t take long for Eddie to impress the coaches with his all-around abilities, and before long, he’d earned a scholarship.

By the time Eddie graduated from college, he had a lot to be proud of. He’d accomplished a lot. But like a lot of people in their twenties, Eddie ended up at different crossroads, pulling him in various directions. Although his love for athletics was still there, some of the pull and excitement had waned, and injuries forced him to dial things back. But sometimes adversity brings opportunity.

Boulder, Colorado is a mecca for North American climbing, with classic arenas like Eldorado Canyon, Rifle, and Longs Peak just a stone's throw away. It didn’t take long for Eddie to get into the business, and before long, he was hooked.

Links:The Firn Line Patreon Evan Phillips Music

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Aug 02, 2020

00:30:31

Today’s episode is a story about adventure. It’s a story about getting scared. It’s a story of friendship and love. It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes. But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum. Rather, It takes place in the mountains - in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchorage, Alaska.

It was in these peaks, known as the Western Chugach, where Brendon Lee’s life changed - in more ways than one. And like a lot of folks who end up in the north, Brendan’s journey to Alaska started very far away - on an Air Force base, in Texas...

LinksThe Firn LIne AK Mountain Evan Phillips Music

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Jul 05, 2020

00:59:40

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998. My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing.

Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali. We’d become instant friends on the trip, and I was glad to be climbing out in the real world with Zach, and his friend Tom.

It must have been July, as the days were long, and the sun was powerful. I have memories of hiking up a mossy, Tolkien-esque valley, to a prominent rock band that was split by 2 striking cracks where we climbed all afternoon. What I remember about that day is that we laughed a lot. And even though Tom seemed a bit shy and introverted, it was clear he was comfortable with Zach - and me as well. Like a lot of days back then, it was a memorable moment in the mountains - being young and healthy, and just simply climbing for the pure joy of it - with friends.

I never climbed with Tom again, but I did stay in touch with Zach - and it was a few years later that I remember Zach mentioning that Tom was struggling with mental illness.

By that time, my own life had changed dramatically - In 2002, I sustained an injury that effectively ended my climbing career. I drifted away from that part of my life. But I still stayed in touch with Zach, and as the years went by we’d run into each other from time to time, and always be glad to catch up. Zach would also fill me in about Tom, who by that time was living on the streets, lost in the paranoid confusion of schizophrenia.

As sad as it was, I didn’t think much of it until maybe around 2010. One day, I stopped to grab a coffee near the REI in Anchorage when I noticed a figure moving toward me. Something about the person looked familiar. He was disheveled, his clothes soiled and torn, with dirty, matted hair poking out of a beanie, and a bushy red beard. Without another thought, I approached him and said, “hey Tom, it’s me Evan”.

Tom hesitated, but then seemed to understand who I was. As we spoke, he had an almost euphoric expression, that seemed to look straight through me, into a world that only he could understand. I asked him if he was ok, where he was staying, if he was hungry. He acknowledged that he was living in the woods, but seemed nonchalant, like it was no big deal. I offered him the $20 bill in my pocket, which he eagerly accepted. When we said goodbye a few minutes later, I looked back as he quickly beelined for the Subway sandwich shop across the street.

The encounter left me shaken. Tom was a shell of the vibrant 18 year old I’d climbed with years before. I could only imagine what it was like to live in his mind.

Over the next few years I saw Tom frequently. Usually around the parking lot of REI, sometimes on the coastal trail, and other times - random places in Anchorage. Tom and I spoke a few more times, but as the months went on, he started avoiding me when we made eye contact. And then, as the months turned into years, I stopped seeing Tom all together. Once again, life moved forward, and time went on - and then in May 2019, out of the blue, I heard a story on the radio.

It was an interview with Marin Sardy - Tom’s sister, who had recently published a memoir, The Edge Of Every Day, which detailed the story of Tom’s struggle with schizophrenia. I listened intently to the story, taking in the information methodically, so I could try and piece together what had happened to him. And then at the end of the segment, I understood at last, when the reporter stated plainly that Tom had died in 2014.

A few months ago I was fortunate to speak with Tom’s sister Marin, about her brother Tom, and what it meant for her to write The Edge of Every Day. Although I learned a lot more about Tom in our conversation, I also learned that Marin’s family, like my own family - like a lot of families, has a long and complicated history with mental illness.

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Jun 16, 2020

00:36:35

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide - Craig Muderlak.

I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman’s excellent book, As Above, So Below. His work is emotional and moody - but also uplifting and joyful at the same time. If you’ve spent time in the mountains - or live for pure moments in nature with friends or family - his work will certainly speak to you.

When Covid 19 hit back in the spring, and lockdowns started going into effect - it hit us all. I mean, it’s still hitting us all. I know for myself, I went through a period of immense creativity - making music and producing multiple podcast episodes. I felt like I needed to contribute something to the community. But part of this push to create was inspired by seeing what others were doing - and Craig was one of the people who I drew inspiration from. His series of pieces called ‘How To Be Alone’ are odes to memories in the mountains. From mount Robson, To Half Dome, To Mount Rainier, To the valley of 10 peaks - looking at Craig’s work, you can almost touch the rock, hear the water trickle through the glaciers, smell the wildflowers waft through the valleys, and feel the presence of undeniable beauty in your soul.

Last month I sat down with Craig for an enjoyable conversation about his process as an artist, his life as a mountain guide, husband and newly-minted father - and the challenges of making a living as an artist - especially in the time of Covid 19. We started out the conversation talking about Craig’s childhood, and what some of his early inspirations were.

Links:Craig Muderlak The Firn Line Patreon Evan Phillips Music

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May 11, 2020

01:14:47

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.

Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram.

His early climbs in the Canadian Rockies, which included an astounding list of classic north faces in the 1970’s, set the stage for other first ascents in Alaska and beyond.

But it was Steve’s love for the greater ranges, specifically the Karakoram, that became the biggest alpine pull in his life. Starting with a number of attempts in the early 80’s on Gasherbrum IV, Steve continually refined his style, and partnerships, to make ascents of giants like K2, Everest, and most-recently, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world - Link Sar.

I recently got a chance to speak with Steve about his enduring alpine career. We talked about his early climbs as a youngster growing up in the Pacific Northwest, as well as his new book, Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict, which was released in 2017 by Mountaineers Books.

We started out by talking about Steve’s inspirations as a kid - and although he didn’t grow up in a particularly adventurous family, it was his curiosity at the local library, that would pique his interest, and set the stage for a life of exploration, and adventure.

Music by Evan Phillips

Links:Steve Swenson (Book)Link Sar (Rock & Ice)The Firn Line (Website)Patreon

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Apr 20, 2020

00:59:32

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot.

Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment. It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away from home, oftentimes on the streets, and eventually using drugs and alcohol.

By the time Margo had become a young adult, she was fully-immersed in a toxic world mixed with chronic depression and drug addiction. She even ended up in jail. For a lot of people, this would have been a hopeless situation.

But when Margo was 28 years old, in the midst of a highly-abusive and toxic relationship, she discovered climbing - and for her, this was the catalyst that would change her life forever. Climbing gave Margo a release, and power, that she’d never before experienced - and within a few years, she was able to harness this new found passion, to kick her addiction, and move forward on a path to healthy living.

Since that time, Margo has forged a life that is inspiring to say the least. In addition to being a world-renowned ice climber, she also runs a successful landscaping business, gives motivational talks to businesses and people around the world, and recently wrote a book chronicling her life called All That Glitters: A Climber's Journey Through Addiction and Depression.

I recently got a chance to have a candid and heartfelt conversation with Margo, and although we talked about climbing, we also talked about the important moments and relationships in her life, and the personal journey that got her to where she is today.

Music by Evan Phillips

Links:Margo Talbot (website)Ken Wallator (Rock & Ice)Karen McNeil Warren Macdonald The Firn Line (website)Patreon

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Apr 07, 2020

00:26:49

Last week I sat down for a remote chat with Valdez, Alaska-based ice climber, Ryan Sims. Ryan is an Engineer with the Valdez Fire Department, but when he’s not putting out fires, both literally and figuratively, he’s part of a new generation of crushers in the ice mecca of Valdez and Thompson Pass, where some of the best ice climbing in North America exists.

But last month, Ryan teamed up with another Alaskan, the seasoned alpine zen-master, Sam Johnson, to do some exploratory first ascents far from Valdez. Supported with grants from Xplore Alaska and Summit Sealants, the team started out in Sam’s hometown of Seward, Alaska - where they made the second ascent of Blood Moon, and the first ascent of Varcolaci - which are both technical 245 meter routes.

From there, the duo flew down to Juneau, where they chartered a helicopter and flew into the Suicide Basin - a remote ice and mixed climbing arena on the Mendenhall Glacier. It was there in February 2012, that Sam, Tim Banfield, and the late Ryan Johnson, established a classic grade V ice route called Bathtime For Toaster. Sam and Johnson returned again in 2018, 6 weeks before Ryan’s passing, climbing a route called Path Of The Fallen - which turned out to be Ryan’s second to last first ascent.

This time, Sam and Ryan Sims headed into the Suicide basin, to see if they could establish another new line. Landing in the shady and bitterly cold amphitheater, the team quickly set up their basecamp, then headed for the rime-coated wall. Here’s Ryan’s account of the route they climbed. A route they named Infinite Jester, in honor of Ryan Johnson.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Mar 29, 2020

00:48:54

A check in with The Firn Line community during the Covid-19 pandemic. These conversations and clips were gathered between March 22-28, 2020. Stay safe and be well - Evan

Music by Evan Phillips

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Mar 23, 2020

00:24:20

The Cascades of North America are a beautiful and diverse range of mountains. These peaks, which range from sharp, granitic towers, to glaciated and crumbly volcanoes, extend all the way from southern British Columbia through Washington and Oregon - all the way to Northern California. And if you live in the Portland, OR area - there’s one Cascade peak that dominates the horizon - Wy’East or Mount Hood as it’s commonly known.

The mountain, which is a dormant volcano - is a literal playground for outdoor enthusiasts, from skiers, snowboarders, hikers - and of course, mountaineers.

Although Wy’East is climbed thousands of times every year up it’s easier routes, some lines offer a more challenging experience - like the Eliot Glacier, and Sandy Glacier headwalls. But no technical route is more sought after, and perhaps feared, than the Yocum Ridge.

First climbed in 1959 by Fred Becky and co., The west-facing serrated, knife-edge ridge - which splits the Reid and Sandy Glaciers, is a route for experienced alpinists - as it requires glacier travel skills, in addition to advanced snow and ice climbing techniques. The ridge is made up of 3 distinct gendarmes (or towers) composed of crumbly, volcanic rock. The top of the route is blocked by a massive, rime coated headwall, which is often skirted to the right or left.

Of the unique conditions needed to climb the Yocum Ridge, Jeff Thomas, author of Oregen High: A climbing guide, writes, “Rotten rock towers guard it’s crest. They cannot be climbed unless they are covered with a thick layer of rime ice.” He goes on to say, “Contrary to what common sense would dictate, rime ice is more solid than the rock on the Yocum Ridge. The catch is that rime is often impossible to protect. Take your ice tools, pickets, and other technology, but know that on this route the old advice still holds true; the leader must not fall.”

So it was with this mindset, that pacific northwest based alpinists Nick Sweeney and Kyle Tarry, set off to climb the Yocum in early March of this year. I recently got a chance to speak with Nick about the route - which turned out to be a significant, and once in a lifetime experience.(Cover Photo: Kyle Tarry)

Music by Evan Phillips

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Dec 21, 2019

01:22:45

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know legendary rock climber and big wall ace, Paul Gagner. Growing up in southern California in the late 60’s and early 70’s - Paul had a keen sense for adventure. This was fueled by summertime camping trips with his family, and a string of visits to National Parks. In fact, it was a fateful trip to Grand Teton National Park in his teens, that would give Paul his first taste for climbing. His appetite for the vertical world whetted, Paul started making trips to Yosemite and climbed his first big wall in 1979.

Since that time, Paul has continued to be a force and consistent presence in the climbing world. A prolific all-arounder, Paul has made impressive ascents all around the globe, from the Haston-Scott on the south face of Denali, to the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (both done in 1987), to a monumental ascent and survival situation on Baffin Island in 1995, and a more recent ascent of Sea Of Dreams on El Cap in 2015.

I recently had the chance to speak with Paul about his extraordinary career in the mountains. We talked about some of his highlight trips and memories, as well as some of the lasting and important partnerships he’s shared with others. All that and more, on this episode of The Firn Line.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Dec 01, 2019

00:42:19

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

In the first episode, we heard Barry tell stories of his early years in the Canadian Rockies, as well as some of the formative partnerships he developed during that time. We heard about iconic routes like The Andromeda Strain, The North Pillar of North Twin, and the east face of Mount Fay to name a few. But there was one mountain - a mountain that is central to my own climbing career - that I wanted to spend a little more time talking with Barry about. And that majestic peak is Mount Robson.

Rising over 10,000 feet from the Fraser River Valley, Robson is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. It’s also one of the most recognizable mountains in North America, if not the world, drawing hundreds of thousands of tourists each year, hoping to catch a glimpse of it’s frosty summit. But to mountaineers, Robson is much more than a photo opportunity. Rather, it is a sacred destination. I place to test one’s self. All the mountain’s aspects feature classic routes - and some walls, like the Emperor Face - harbor some of the biggest and most challenging lines in North America.

One of these lines is called Infinite Patience - a route Barry established up the right side of the Emperor Face in 2002 with partners Eric Dumerac and Phillipe Pellet.

I asked Barry to talk about his years long obsession with Robson, why the mountain is meaningful to him, and what it took to finally make it up Infinite Patience after years of attempts.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Nov 10, 2019

01:17:29

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.

Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies - and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain - to the north pillar of North Twin - to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called M-16 - and a visionary line of beauty up mount Robson’s emperor face.

But like many alpinists, Barry’s career has been defined just as much by strong partnerships and friendships he’s forged, than by the mountains themselves - and this was especially evident during a recent conversation we had.

We talked about everything, from his early experiences in the Rockies, to a string of ascents in the early to mid 80’s with Dave Cheesmond, and much much more.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Oct 18, 2019

01:06:28

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know songwriter, and mountain traveller, Jason Tyler Burton.

Growing up in a working class family on the outskirts of Lexington, KY - Burton was raised hearing the stories of his grandfather, who like many Kentuckians of times past, worked hard to make a living in the nearby coal mines of Harlan County. Although Burton would take a much different career path, one thing he’s carried with him throughout his life, is an appreciation for the history, culture, and simplicity of his Kentucky roots.

This influence can be heard throughout Burton’s new album, aptly titled Kentuckian. Spanning the genres of folk, alt-country and bluegrass, Kentuckian is a musical commentary on the past, present and future of rural life in Kentucky. Americana-UK writes, “Kentuckian is a straight down the middle Americana roots album full of all the delights of the genre. Some stirring playing, acoustic rhythms and rhymes, some keening harmonies, strong blue-collar songwriting all topped off by Tyler Burton’s authentic voice.”

I recently got a chance to sit down with Jason, to talk about his new album, the ups and downs of being a working musician, as well as his love for the mountains, and living simply.

Music by Jason Tyler Burton

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Oct 03, 2019

00:43:29

On today’s episode of The Firn line, we’ll get to know Pacific Northwest-based alpinist Mallorie Estenson. Growing up in the shadows of the North Cascades, Mallorie participated in athletics as a kid, with an inclination toward the more adventurous side of life. Eventually, this led to an interest in climbing, and for the last three years, she’s been working as a mountain guide. But Mallorie’s interest in climbing goes much deeper than the guiding life. In fact, it’s not a stretch to call her a straight up “Dirtbag” climber. And in Mallorie’s world - that’s a good thing.I recently got a chance to talk to Mallorie about her progression as an alpinist, how that led to a recent life-changing experience in the Picket Range, as well as her future professional and personal goals in the mountains.

Music by Evan Phillips

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LINKS:Mallorie Estenson Steph Abegg The Firn Line (Website)

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Sep 06, 2019

01:05:50

I first heard about Steve House in 1995 - when I was living at my family's cabin on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. I was 20 years old, working as a park rangers assistant. Besides work, there wasn’t much to do that summer, but chop wood, go for mind-numbing afternoon runs, and fish murky waters for salmon. Unfortunately for me, the mountains were hours away. But one thing I looked forward to was my monthly subscription to Climbing Magazine. I cherished each magazine like a prized possession, and poured over each story again and again, dreaming of the far off ranges that captured my imagination.

It was during this time that I read about Steve House’s climb of Denali’s Father and Sons Wall - completed in a light and fast alpine style that was coming more and more into vogue in the U.S. Soon after, I started hearing more about Steve’s adventures in Alaska and beyond - and as the years passed, I watched him transform into one of the most accomplished, and visionary alpinists of our time.

Steve’s life and alpine climbing career were documented thoroughly in his excellent book, Beyond The Mountain. But in the last few years, House has become equally known for his work with Uphill Athlete. And that’s how I got to connect with Steve last month, when we sat down to chat for an hour about his new book, Training For The Uphill Athlete, which he co-authored with Scott Johnston and Kilian Jornet.

But before we got into the guts of the book, I wanted to take some time to talk about about Steve’s early years as a budding alpinist in Slovenia - and how those experiences helped shape his career as an alpinist - and eventually his work with Uphill Athlete.

Music by Evan Phillips

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LINKS:Steve House Uphill Athlete The Firn Line (Website)

SPONSORS:Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot

Aug 30, 2019

00:49:05

Training for the mountains has come a long way - even from when I started out in the early 90’s. Back then, the mantra was that actual climbing was the best training for climbing. While this is still true in a lot of ways - thinking has progressed - and a lot of that has to do with the emergence of UphillAthlete.com

Founded by Scott Johnston and Steve House, Uphill Athlete has become a name synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running, mountaineering - to skimo racing.

In 2014 - the duo published Training For The New Alpinism - a manual to help alpinists translate training theory into practice to achieve any mountaineering goal. Building on the success of that book, the team expanded their horizons, and earlier this year, along with world-renowned mountain athlete Kilian Jornet, they published Training For the Uphill Athlete: A manual for mountain runners and ski mountaineers.

I recently got a chance to speak with both Scott Johnston and Steve House, to talk about their respective careers in the mountains, how the two forged an enduring friendship and partnership through training, and what it means to share their knowledge with the mountain community.

My first conversation was with Scott, and like a lot of my interviews, we started out by discussing Scott’s inspirations as a kid, and how that led to a life immersed in the mountains, fitness and training.

Music by Evan PhillipsSupport the show at Patreon

Links:Uphill Athlete The Firn Line (website)

Aug 08, 2019

00:41:51

Have you ever been on a path, where it seemed like everything was lining up the way it should be - things were going smooth, your life felt perfect - and then one day, seemingly out of the blue, something happened, and everything changed? What once felt comfortable, suddenly felt unstable. What once felt like solid ground, now felt like falling through space.

As climbers and outdoorsy folks in general, we pride ourselves on being strong - both physically and mentally. We’re high achievers that see in mountain faces and blank walls, problems that need to be solved.

But at the end of the day, we’re all human beings. Not every problem can be solved - and sometimes, what’s most important is being able to look in the mirror and say, today is the day to make some changes.

In some ways, this is what my recent conversation with climber, skier and musician Kjersti Gedde was about. We talked about her recent decision to walk away from a stable career in the outdoor industry, how music and songwriting helped her navigate through overwhelming grief, and what it means to give yourself permission to simply be who you are.

Music by Evan Phillips & Kjersti Gedde

Support the show on Patreon and The Firn Line (website)

Jul 19, 2019

00:49:21

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know Alaskan-based wilderness adventurer, woodworker, potter and teacher, Tony Perelli.

Tony grew up in the farm country of Wisconsin, playing sports as a kid, but also developing a passion for the outdoors, fishing and canoeing with his family and grandparents. After college, Tony found himself in Alaska, working as a teacher for the Anchorage School District, and also meeting a group of friends that would introduce him to mountaineering and packrafting. These formative experiences would shape his life, and instill a deeper sense of love and respect, for the wilderness.

Since that time, Tony has continued refining his life, stripping away the excesses, and focusing instead on living simply, working with his hands, and sharing unique life experiences and connections with others.

Last winter, I got to sit down with Tony, to talk about his life in the mountains and wilderness, as well as the creative endeavors he chooses to pursue, and share with others. Like many conversations on The Firn Line, we started by talking about Tony’s inspirations as a kid - and later, how a random encounter after college, would lead him to Alaska.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Links:Tony Perelli The Firn Line (website)

Jun 27, 2019

01:03:43

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know alpinist and author, Simon McCartney. Back in the late 70’s - the norms of mountaineering were transforming - moving away from the heavy siege style tactics of the past, to the light and fast “alpine style” path of the future. Although forward-thinking alpinists had been employing these tactics in the mountains for years, only a small group of climbers we’re climbing alpine style in Alaska - and two of these climbers were Jack Roberts and Simon McCartney.

Beginning in 1978, this confident and brash duo made the first (and only) ascent of the exceedingly dangerous north face of Mount Huntington. Then, in 1980 - the team upped the ante when they climbed the enormous 8,000 foot southwest face of Denali. Although the pair readily handled the technical difficulties on the face, it was the insidious onset of cerebral edema that nearly killed Simon high on the peak. Although Simon made it off the mountain after a harrowing descent of the Cassin Ridge - the experience affected him deeply, and he never climbed again.

But the friendship Simon formed with his partner Jack Roberts never left him - and after 35 years, in a full-circle chain of events - Simon would write a book about the two life-changing climbs he’d shared with Jack. The book, titled The Bond, was published in 2017, and was an instant mountaineering classic, winning the esteemed Boardman-Tasker award.

A few months ago, I was fortunate to have a long conversation with Simon. We talked at length about the climbs up Huntington and Denali, the importance of his relationship with Jack, and what it meant for him to write The Bond.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Links:The Bond Huntington north face (AAJ 1979)Denali SW Face (AAJ 1981)The Firn LIne (website)

Jun 06, 2019

00:53:55

On today’s episode of the firn line, we’ll get to know author, biologist and wilderness adventurer, Caroline Van Hemert.

Caroline has an impressive life resume: She’s a mother of two boys, holds a Ph.D in wildlife biology (as well as an m.a. In creative writing), AND she just published her first book titled, The Sun Is A Compass. The book, which recently released to critical acclaim, chronicles her and her husband's 4,000 mile, human-powered expedition from the pacific northwest rainforest, all the way to the Arctic Coast of Alaska.

I recently got a chance to talk with Caroline about this journey; about the literal, ups and downs over mountain passes and glaciers, the life-lessons she learned along the way, as well as her process of writing about it.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Links:Caroline Van Hemert The Sun Is A Compass (book)The Firn Line (website)

May 16, 2019

00:40:32

In April, 2019, alpinists Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell flew into the Ruth Gorge, intent on repeating "Blood From The Stone", arguably one of the most difficult routes in the Alaska Range. But when the duo found poor conditions on the face, they re-directed their efforts, eventually succeeding on a new route between "Blood From The Stone" and "The Wine Bottle".

The pair were harassed by a group of ravenous ravens, and endured a pummeling at their second bivy. But the suffering was balanced out by incredible climbing, which followed a series of vertical, razor cut, ice-tubes splitting the granite walls. On the third day, the team topped out on Mount Dickey, establishing ‘Ruth Gorge Grinder’, an instant Alaska Range classic.

Music by Evan Phillips

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Links:Alan Rousseau Jackson Marvell Ruth Gorge Grinder (AAJ 2019)The Firn Line (website)