No one is safe when Pete Wells chooses to turn his gaze their way: Not Guy Fieri, not Peter Luger, not even Per Se. The restaurant critic for the New York Times since late 2011, Wells has helped expand the scope of what it is a reviewer does at the paper: He is the first to give starred reviews to restaurants in all five boroughs. And he’s gone out of his way to surface eateries that exist under the radar. We discuss the highs and lows of what can only be called a dream job, and how the pandemic was so devastating to the restaurant industry. He breaks down his process and shares a brief itinerary for how to spend a day eating your way through Brooklyn.