New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells holds one of the most storied positions in journalism, and it comes with a massive helping of responsibility, physical demands, and expectations from readers and restaurateurs alike. Wells (who does his best to maintain anonymity) sat down to talk about the history of the job, its tolls and rewards, and what he hopes that chefs understand about his reviews—even when they're negative. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices