A handful of chefs have been running small restaurants out of their homes for years. They're often low-income people of color operating underground, serving their specialties to neighbors and homesick immigrants. But pandemic lockdowns prompted a surge in interest — and a government move to inspect and license the businesses, with uneven results. Chronicle reporter Elgin Nelson and critic Cesar Hernandez join host Demian Bulwa to discuss who's opening home restaurants, who's showing up for the food, and why the business is much more complicated than it might appear. | Unlimited Chronicle access: sfchronicle.com/pod Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

A handful of chefs have been running small restaurants out of their homes for years. They're often low-income people of color operating underground, serving their specialties to neighbors and homesick immigrants. But pandemic lockdowns prompted a surge in interest — and a government move to inspect and license the businesses, with uneven results. Chronicle reporter Elgin Nelson and critic Cesar Hernandez join host Demian Bulwa to discuss who's opening home restaurants, who's showing up for the food, and why the business is much more complicated than it might appear. | Unlimited Chronicle access: sfchronicle.com/pod Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices