I’m Ashley Rodriguez, and you’re listening to the Good Beer Hunting podcast.

A few months ago—right after the pandemic started changing our lives, and businesses across the United States began closing their doors—I wrote an article about some of my favorite local places. I wanted to know how they were adjusting to the unprecedented circumstances. Things felt so serious at the time, just days after shelter-in-place orders were announced, and before the word “quarantine” was an everyday part of our collective vocabulary. But here we are. It’s July 2020, and it doesn’t look like this situation has an end in the immediate future.

One of the places I visited was Middle Brow Beer Co., which is in my neighborhood of Logan Square, Chicago. I talked to one of the co-owners, Pete Ternes. And I remember him mentioning something about the coronavirus, and knowing that this would radically change the way we operate in the world. It seems almost prophetic, looking back at that conversation four months later. And it’s been fascinating seeing how Middle Brow, which is a small neighborhood brewery and pizza shop, has also evolved and adapted during that time.

Today I’m sitting with two of the partners at Middle Brow, Pete, who I mentioned above, and Polly Nevins. Middle Brow opened its brick-and-mortar retail space in January 2019, but has been brewing wild ales in Chicago for almost a decade. In a way, both its newness and experience are helping the business weather this tumultuous time. Because the space is new, the owners have also been able to change their business, shifting almost seamlessly from a vibrant restaurant and brewpub to a few different iterations of a to-go pizza place and community grocery store. The model evolves in real-time in response to the needs of the neighborhood.

The owners’ experience has also given them the confidence to brew wild and weird beers during a pandemic—beers that maybe benefit from having a bartender tell you more about them. Part of that is the trust they’ve instilled in their staff, and part of that comes from the trust they’ve built with their neighbors. Middle Brow doesn’t feel like a destination brewery—you wouldn’t see people lining up for the next hype can release. But what you will see is a business that takes its responsibility as a leader in the community seriously. They’ve recently announced a no-tipping policy to create wage equity among their front- and back-of-house staff, and have been clear on their political beliefs, including supporting the Black Lives Matter movement, donating food, implementing a “buy a loaf, give a loaf” bread program, and supporting local organizations working within their community.

This is Polly Nevins and Pete Ternes of Middle Brow Beer Co. Listen in.